| Subtotal | €112,40 |
|---|---|
| Shipping to Netherlands | Free |
| Total | €112,40 |
Is your Iseki TU165 not running smoothly, hard to start, or smoking too much? In this article, we'll guide you through the most common faults with this series, including the likely cause and what you can do about it. You can fix some issues yourself, while others are best left to a professional workshop.
Suitable for the entire series: Iseki Landhope TU145, TU155, TU165 and TU175 (2WD and 4WD versions).
| Symptom | Possible cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Starter motor doesn't turn when you turn the key | Clutch pedal not depressed | Fully depress the pedal — the starter motor only engages with the clutch depressed |
| Safety switch faulty | Have it repaired | |
| Battery discharged | Charge the battery | |
| Dirty or loose connections | Clean, tighten and grease to prevent corrosion | |
| Switch or starter motor faulty | Have it repaired | |
| Starter motor turns but doesn't reach speed | Weak battery | Charge the battery |
| Poor earthing | Clean the connections | |
| Wrong oil viscosity | Use the correct oil for the season | |
| Fuel pump not working properly | Check the fuse | |
| Starter motor turns but engine doesn't start | Air in the fuel system | Bleed the system |
| Clogged fuel filter | Clean or replace | |
| No fuel supply | Open the tap, check fuel is present | |
| Engine fault | Professional workshop |
| Symptom | Possible cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Irregular idling speed | Air in the system | Bleed the system |
| Clogged filter | Clean or replace | |
| Clogged injector nozzle | Professional workshop | |
| Fuel leak at the lines | Tighten clamps, resurface copper rings | |
| Uneven injection / fuel pump | Professional workshop, check fuse | |
| Engine stalls at low speed | Faulty injection pump, incorrect valve clearance, or faulty injector nozzle | Professional workshop |
| Engine runs away (over-revving) | Dirt in the governor, or oil rising into the combustion chamber | Professional workshop |
| Engine suddenly stalls while driving | Fuel shortage | Refill and bleed |
| Too little engine oil | Top up | |
| Faulty injector nozzle | Have it replaced by a professional workshop | |
| Seized up due to lack of lubrication | Professional workshop | |
| Engine overheating | Too little coolant | Top up |
| Fan belt loose or broken | Tighten or replace | |
| Clogged radiator | Clean | |
| Too little engine oil | Check and top up | |
| Exhaust smoke is white | Clogged air filter, too much engine oil in the crankcase, or insufficient fuel supply | Clean the air filter element, check the oil level, if the problem persists visit a professional workshop |
| Exhaust smoke too black | Poor fuel quality, too much fuel, or injector pressure too low | Use the correct diesel; for other causes, visit a professional workshop |
| Insufficient engine power | Seized/clogged injector nozzle, insufficient compression, incorrect valve clearance, incorrect injection timing, fuel shortage, or clogged air filter | Cleaning the air filter and checking the fuel system yourself is possible; for other causes, visit a professional workshop |
In addition to the official causes listed in the factory manual (a clogged air filter, too much engine oil in the crankcase, or insufficient fuel supply), there is a specific pattern regularly reported by owners of this and similar older K3 diesel engines: noticeably heavy white smoke at idle speed, which clearly reduces or even disappears once you give it more throttle.
This is a well-known phenomenon in older, indirect-injection diesel engines and usually has one of the following causes:
Practical advice: if problems persist, have the injector nozzles tested and, if necessary, reconditioned or replaced, have the injection timing and valve clearance checked, drain the fuel tank and filter if in doubt, and always allow sufficient warm-up time (see our engine oil & fluidsblog) before putting the tractor under heavy load.
| Symptom | Possible cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Oil pressure warning light on while driving | Too little engine oil | Top up to the correct level |
| Incorrect (too thin) oil viscosity | Use the correct oil | |
| Pressure switch faulty | Replace | |
| Oil pump faulty | Professional workshop | |
| Clogged oil filter element | Replace | |
| Charge warning light on while driving | Wiring fault | Clean and tighten connections |
| Alternator faulty | Professional workshop | |
| Regulator faulty | Professional workshop | |
| Battery faulty or too little distilled water | Replace or top up | |
| Fan belt loose or broken | Tighten or replace |
| Symptom | Possible cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Clutch slips | Incorrect pedal adjustment, or worn/burnt clutch lining | Adjust the clearance; for worn lining, visit a professional workshop |
| Clutch doesn't disengage | Seized clutch lining, or incorrect pedal adjustment | Professional workshop if seized; otherwise adjust clearance |
| Brakes perform poorly or pull to one side | Too much pedal play, worn/burnt lining, or uneven left/right pedal pressure | Adjust and equalise clearance; for worn lining, visit a professional workshop |
| Brake pedal returns poorly | Damaged return spring, or sliding parts without grease | Replace, or remove rust and grease |
| Hydraulic pressure doesn't build up | Engine speed too low | Use 1000-1500rpm |
| Too little transmission oil | Top up to level | |
| Air drawn in via the suction line | Check connections, replace damaged O-rings | |
| Clogged oil filter | Clean | |
| Oil pump or control valve faulty | Professional workshop | |
| Cylinder damaged | Professional workshop, replace | |
| Oil leakage at the lines | Loose couplings, or cracked line | Check connections; for a cracked line, visit a professional workshop |
| Squeaking/whistling sound when lifting lever raised | Stopper position of the relief valve shifted | Readjust position |
If you're starting an engine overhaul due to, for example, low compression or a leaking head gasket, first check which engine you actually have. The TU145 (engine K3B) and TU155 (engine K3C) have a smaller cylinder capacity than the TU165 and TU175 (both engine K3D, 979cc). The head gasket, piston rings and other engine-specific parts are not interchangeable between these two groups, even though they belong to the same tractor generation. For the K3D engine (TU165/TU175), you specifically need the head gasket Iseki Landhope TU165/TU170 (73mm bore) and the piston rings Iseki K3D — these do not fit a TU145 or TU155.
Starting problems? Check the glow plug relay Mitsubishi K3A-K3D (€34.50), the glow plugs Iseki TU Landhope 150-177 (€19.50) and the oil pressure switch (€9.95). If the clutch is slipping, the complete clutch kit (plate, pressure assembly and thrust bearing) for €139.50 is the recommended solution. In case of overheating: check the water pump (€59.50) and the alternator (€138.50) or starter motor (€154.50) for electrical issues. If white smoke persists despite clean filters and good injector nozzles, this indicates wear in the engine itself: in that case, choose the complete overhaul kit for K3D engine (€395), for a TU165/TU175, or the overhaul kit for K3C engine (€385) for a TU155/TU157 with the smaller engine.
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