Does your Iseki TA refuse to start, or won't the rear lift work? The original manual for the TA series contains extensive troubleshooting tables, and from practical experience we now know the weak points of this series well. In this article we combine both into a usable step-by-step plan.
Suitable for the entire series: Iseki TA207, TA227, TA247, TA263, TA267, TA287 and TA317 (2WD and 4WD).
The most common "fault" is not a defect at all: the starter motor does nothing because the start safety switch doesn't release. Check whether the clutch pedal is fully depressed (the start switch is on the pedal), whether the gear levers are in neutral, and whether on the G version the PTO switch is set to OFF. If the starter motor still does nothing: measure the battery (12 V), check the battery terminals for corrosion, and check the fuses. A worn or dirty start safety switch contact is common at this age and is cheap to replace. If the starter motor does turn but the engine doesn't start, think of: an empty or dirty fuel filter, air in the fuel system (bleed it!), insufficient preheating in cold weather, or defective glow plugs. The complete starting procedure is described in our article on Iseki TA starting & operation.
A separate suspect in starting problems is the stop solenoid (fuel shut-off) on the fuel pump. This magnet opens the fuel supply when the ignition is switched on and closes it when switching off. If the solenoid is defective or receives no power, the starter motor turns fine but the engine simply gets no diesel – it doesn't start, or stalls again immediately. Conversely, a sticking solenoid can cause the engine to refuse to stop when you turn the key. Testing is simple: switch on the ignition and listen for a clear click at the pump; otherwise measure whether there is 12 V at the solenoid connection. No click while there is voltage means a defective solenoid; no voltage means a wiring or ignition switch problem. Solenoids are brand- and pump-specific – check our solenoid range and always verify the version against engine type and chassis number before ordering.
Smoke is a good diagnostic indicator on these diesel engines. Black smoke means too much fuel or too little air: usually a clogged air filter, overloading (too large an implement, too high a gear) or dirty injectors. White smoke is unburned diesel or water vapor: normal on a cold start with too short a preheating time, but if it persists and coolant is disappearing, it points to a blown head gasket. Blue smoke is oil consumption: worn piston rings or valve seals, often combined with an engine that pulls poorly. For the E3AG1 and E3AD1 engines, piston rings for the TA207/TA227 (SKU-95060), piston rings for the TA287/TA317 (SKU-95058) and valve seals (SKU-410001) are readily available – pay attention to the engine type on the type plate.
For the electronically operated lift, the manual gives a clear diagnostic sequence. First check three things: are the dials and selector switches on the control panel in the correct position, is the check switch off, and is the safety start released? A lift that seems "completely dead" is surprisingly often simply still in the start interlock, or the lowering speed knob is set to "lock".
If the lift cylinder still doesn't move after that, work through these points from the manual. First check the ground connection: a rusty or dirty ground point is cause number one on these machines – sand the contact surface bare and refasten it. Then firmly push in all plug connections , check the fuses (especially the one for the solenoid valve wiring) and measure whether there is 12 V supply voltage. Then listen whether the solenoid valves click audibly when operated; you can also press the manual push pin on the valve, which sometimes releases stuck dirt. If there's no click or no oil flow, the solenoid valve or the flow divider needs servicing. If the lift responds exactly the opposite way to the switch, the valve wiring or cylinder lines have been connected the wrong way round.
If the implement doesn't level out in automatic mode, first set the tilt dial to the center position and then check the adjustment of the tilt sensor. If the parallel position doesn't work, the stroke sensor on the lift cylinder is usually out of adjustment or its plug has vibrated loose. If the depth control doesn't respond, check whether the depth sensor is connected and whether the control lever is fully forward. And if the backup function doesn't work: it deliberately doesn't engage if the implement has already been raised with the position lever. From practical experience, we also know of cases where the electronic control box itself keeps "hanging", causing the lift not to lower or to suddenly drop; in that case first check ground, plugs and sensors before writing off the control box, because in most cases the cause lies in those surrounding conditions.
For the electrical system, the order is always: bulb/filament → fuse → ground and contacts. Headlight not working? First replace the bulb, then the fuse, then clean the connections. Turn signal not flashing: bulb or flasher relay. The TA series has eight blade fuses in the fuse box (with spare fuses and a fuse puller in the box) plus two fusible links in the main wiring. A blown fusible link can be recognized by bulged or discolored insulation; everything behind it is dead. Always replace a fuse with the same rating, and first find the cause of the blowing – and never use a piece of wire as an emergency fix.
In addition to the manual's troubleshooting, we see a number of recurring wear complaints on the TA series. The water pump is the well-known weak point of the Landleader series: the bearings develop play (noticeable at the cooling fan) and the pump starts leaking – recognizable by coolant traces under the pump or a whining noise. Replace it immediately, as a failing water pump means overheating and, in the worst case, a blown head gasket; in our article on the defective water pump on the Iseki TA210 – TA530 we show the complete replacement procedure. The Water pump Iseki TA207 – TA267F (SKU-321) is available from stock; if you have a TA287 or TA317, just email us for the correct version.
On the 4WD models (F) oil leakage at the front axle is a known issue: the vertical front axle oil seals dry out, after which the steering knuckle housings lose oil. Continuing to drive means a front axle running dry. The oil seals are available separately: front axle oil seal vertical TA207 – TA317 (SKU-96065) and front axle oil seal TA207 – TA317 (SKU-96014). If the clutch slips (engine speed rises, no speed increase, smell of burning), then a complete clutch set for the TA210 – TA317 (SKU-999998)is available, or separately a clutch plate (SKU-3018418-2) and pressure plate assembly (SKU-75030). The alternator and voltage regulator also tend to fail with age (charge light stays on). And on grey-import machines, the hydraulic hoses and control boxes of the Japanese version sometimes differ from the European versions; therefore always check the chassis number when ordering. For reference: the TA series shares a lot of technology with certain Massey Ferguson 1200 compact models, which can simplify the parts search – but always verify fit against the serial number.
Product tip: commonly used parts for these faults are the Water pump Iseki TA207 – TA267F (SKU-321), the Alternator Iseki TA207 – TA267 (SKU-120002), the Glow plug Iseki TA (SKU-554016-5), the Starter motor TA250 – TA267F (SKU-129011), the Clutch set TA210 – TA317 (SKU-999998) and the Turn signal Iseki TA Landleader (SKU-50009).